"Life is not measured by the number of breaths you take but by the moments that take your breath away?"

Author: Unknown

Monday, March 18, 2013

Mittleider Gardening Experiment

       For the past couple of months I have been researching how to improve my garden. Year before last ( my first year) the garden did pretty well. Then last year, I got next to nothing out of it. It might have been a big part to the dry season we had last summer. I started out watering regularly, then we were traveling a lot, and the garden would end up going for 10 days or more with no water.Neither year did I have an abundance of veggies.
       I first stumbled onto this method when I found a post on a tomato forum by someone who uses this method to grow produce for sale. Check out these pics in this thread  HERE. Her tomatoes are unbelievably huge and abundant.
       Then I found the "Back to Eden" method of using huge amounts of wood chips to grow in. Then I stumbled upon youtube videos by LDSprepper who started out testing Back To Eden, then Mittleider. Check out his comparison results between the two methods HERE. Check out his many very informative other videos while your there.
                    Here is a website explaining some of the Mittleider process.
                                            http://growfood.com/
      I couldnt find any bad reviews on this method, so I am going to test it this year. The only thing I had to special order was the package of micro-nutrients, and a #57 drill bit for the irrigation system. You could wait on the irrigation and just do it by hand, but since we travel a bit, I wanted to go ahead and put this in anyway. The remaining items to buy locally and are fairly inexpensive are 13-13-13 fertilizer, epsom salts,lime or gypsum, and Mule Team Borax for the boron. You can make beds with the alternative grow mix, or just do it in your native soil. I opted to use my soil.
        I wanted a couple more raised beds added along side my potager because I wanted to try corn and potatoes this year, and a few other things. Here  are some pictures showing my progress.

   My husband tilled up the ground where the two new beds are to go. The potager is off to the right, enclosed in the fence. He made several passes. Luckily the ground was a little soft from the occasional rains we have been having making it a lot easier. We are adding in two 5'x20' beds with a walk space between the fence, and another between the two beds.


       I had to dig a small ditch from the top edge of my large raised bed and retaining wall behind the house. This is to run some pvc pipe to get the water from the faucet up to these beds for irrigation. Then drop it over the upper wall, and thru the lowed bed, and over the lower wall.
This pic shows the two retaining walls for my 60 ft long raised flower bed.
I am going to keep adding to this line to detail my experiment on this gardening method.

Meanwhile, I couldnt pass up a close-up shot of these beautiful blue primrose flowers showing their pretty faces in my raised bed.

If you want to try The Mittleider Gardening Method for yourself, you can find lots of info at the link at the top of my sidebar on the right. There are also links there with free plans to build  your own greenhouse, and a free gardening journal to download. If you have any questions, I will do my best to help.

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Companion Planting Chart

    I have been working on gardening plans for a few months now. I have been researching and ordering seeds, studying what plant works or doesnt work with another, different gardening methods (settled on Mittleider method which I will tell you more about in future posts),seed starting, and grow lights. To be honest, i have probably spent way too much time on the online research,lol. But you know how play time on the computer goes.
    Anyway, one of my long lists, that i have jotted down, and jotted down again is companion planting. There is lots of information available online. This is an opinion of what plants grow well with others, or may inhibit the growth of a plant. for example, Fennel is not recommended to be planted with other vegetables. Basil is thought to enhance the flavor of tomatoes, some disagree, but it is also considered to increase  yield. Rosemary is thought to deter cabbage moths. cinnamon basil is supposed to increase yield of green peppers. Some plants just dont play well with others and need to be separated. I finally got my list into a chart form. So feel free to download it for your own use by clicking on the link below:

Companion Planting Chart Download

Monday, March 11, 2013

My Fall 2012 soil test


Here are the results of my Fall 2012 soil test. The one for the yard has had NO amendments, ans very little topsoil on it. I am going to work on an area beside the garden to add more beds. 

SAMPLE DETAILS                                         Sample ID:     GARDEN
Sample Date
9/23/2012
Previous Crop
 
LAB ID
12-8612
Soil Name
 
Limed in last 12Months
No
Soil Texture
Clay Loam
Area (Sq.Ft)
120
Tillage Method
Conventional
 
LAB TEST RESULTS
Nutrients
Values
Rating
 
 
 
 
 
 
Soil pH
5.8
L.R.: 1.9
 
 
LOW
MEDIUM
HIGH
V HIGH
P2O5(Lbs/A)
377
VERY HIGH
 
P2O5
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
K2O(Lbs/A)
569
VERY HIGH
 
K2O
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Ca(Lbs/A)
3584
HIGH
 
Ca
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Mg(Lbs/A)
531
VERY HIGH
 
Mg
 
 
 
 
 
Nutrients
K
Ca
Mg
H
Total[CEC], BS(K+Ca+Mg)
MEQ/100
1
9
2
4
16
%Sat
5
58
15
25
77
 
RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CROP: HOME GARDENS
Aglime
87.4* Lbs/1000 Sq.Feet
Fertilizer - N (Lbs/1000 Sq.Ft)
2 **
Fertilizer - P2O5 (Lbs/1000 Sq.Ft)
0
Fertilizer - K2O (Lbs/1000 Sq.Ft)
0
 
SUGGESTIONS
* If pH is above 5.5 do not apply lime to root crops, potatoes, and peppers.
You can use any fertilizer or natural material that supplies the plant nutrients recommended.  Your county agent can help you determine suitable grades and rates. Commercial fertilizers carry a label showing percentages of nitrogen-phosphate-potash; For example, a 50 Lbs bag of 5-10-10 contains 2.5 Lbs of nitrogen (N), 5 Lbs of phosphate (P2O5), and 5 Lbs of potash (K2O). If your recommendation calls for 2 Lbs of N / 1000 sq.Ft only, you should apply 6 Lbs of ammonium nitrate (33-0-0) fertilizer.
For best results, retest and loosen the top 6-12 inches of soil every fall and mix in recommended lime, 2/3 of the fertilizer and any available rotted compost. If soil test levels are very high (VHI), use only compost and 2/3 of the nitrogen. Apply the remainder of the fertilizer at planting time. Leafy crops can be sidedressed at early or intermediate growth stages with 3 tablespoons of 33-0-0 nitrogen fertilizer per 10 feet of row. Potatoes and asparagus can take a little more.  Do not apply nitrogen to carrots, beets, watermelons, or sweet potatoes.
If K is over 500, Ca is over 8000, and Mg is over 600, you can avoid toxic salt effects by loosening the subsoil and adding organic matter; do not use manure.

SAMPLE DETAILS                                         Sample ID:     YARD
Sample Date
9/23/2012
Previous Crop
 
LAB ID
12-8611
Soil Name
 
Limed in last 12Months
No
Soil Texture
Clay
Area (Sq.Ft)
0
Tillage Method
No-Till
 
LAB TEST RESULTS
Nutrients
Values
Rating
 
 
 
 
 
 
Soil pH
4.9
L.R.: 3
 
 
LOW
MEDIUM
HIGH
V HIGH
P2O5(Lbs/A)
11
LOW
 
P2O5
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
K2O(Lbs/A)
196
HIGH
 
K2O
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Ca(Lbs/A)
1016
MEDIUM
 
Ca
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Mg(Lbs/A)
220
MEDIUM
 
Mg
 
 
 
 
 
 
Nutrients
K
Ca
Mg
H
Total[CEC], BS(K+Ca+Mg)
MEQ/100
0
3
1
6
10
%Sat
3
27
10
62
40
 
RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CROP: ESTABLISHED LAWNS OR TURF
Aglime
138 Lbs/1000 Sq.Feet
Fertilizer - N (Lbs/1000 Sq.Ft)
3
Fertilizer - P2O5 (Lbs/1000 Sq.Ft)
2
Fertilizer - K2O (Lbs/1000 Sq.Ft)
0
 
SUGGESTIONS
You can use any fertilizer that supplies the plant nutrients recommended. Remember that the numbers on the fertilizer bag show the percentages of nitrogen (N), phosphate (P2O5), and potash (K2O) in that order; For example, 50 Lbs of 5-10-10 contains 2.5 Lbs of (N), 5 Lbs of (P2O5), and 5 Lbs of (K2O). Apply all of the recommended P2O5 and K2O and approximately 2/3 of N in fall and the remaining N in spring after the flush of spring growth. Retest your soil every fall.  Your county agent can suggest fertilizers that are available locally.
For bermudagrass and zoysia, use fertilizer amounts indicated and change application dates to spring (all of P2O5 and K2O and 2/3 of N) and fall (1/3 of N). For better color of these species, an additional 1 Lb of N can be applied in July.  In order to improve color of bluegrass-fescue turf, apply 1/2 Lb of N per 1000 sq.Ft in early summer. One-half Lb of N can be applied to 1000 Sq.Ft by using 1.5 Lb of ammonium nitrate (33-0-0) or 1 Lb of urea (46-0-0).  For further information, see WVU Misc. Pub. 406 - Lawn Care and Maintenance.

Sunday, March 10, 2013

New $9.00 Grow Light

      As you know I have bought a few inexpensive shoplights to use for growing seedlings under. the shoplights run about $12 each then about another $8 for two bulbs for each fixture. So  about $20 per light. To cover the area of a 72 cell seed tray turned sideways it take a min of 2 lights hung side-by-side. Then you still have a couple of inches of the edge of the tray outside the edge of the light, causing these edge  seedings to lean a little in towards the light.My 3ft wide shelving unit only holds 2 trays end to end.  However , if I hung 3 lights side by side, I could turn the trays sideways and get in 3 trays per shelf. Three lights would cost $60 to set up.
      After doing some research on you tube, {especially this one: Reaganite71} I found a way to set the whole 3 tray shelf up for about $9, plus the cost of 4 cheap extension cords for $1.37 each. Thats a WHOLE lot cheaper. I could only find 60 watt bulbs in my Walmart, 75 watt would be better probably.
                                                 Here's how it looks on my shelf:

I have a single shoplight on the top shelf for my narrow window box seed tray and some i have in egg trays. the second shelf has 2 shoplights hung side by side. The 3rd shelf shows the box light from the side view.
This is what it looks like from underneath.
This shows the box light hung in my shelving unit. You are looking up under it slightly to show the bulbs. With the foil, it seems pretty bright under here, and i can raise and lower the box over the seed trays to keep the lights close as possible to the seedlings.
Materials list:
4 Plug in adapters to screw the bulbs into..........    .97 cents each
Package of 4 spiral flourescent light bulbs these were about $1.88 for single, or about $5 for 4 pack,  daylight bulbs. 60 watts each.{ 14 actual watts used.}Great Value brand
Aluminum foil
4 cheap extension cords about $1.37 each
Bottle of white school glue
Duct tape
Clear 2" wide packing tape
Large cardboard box

My box wasnt quite long enough. i needed about 31.5" long by the length of a seed tray (approx 21")
So I opened up the 4 corners of my box by cutting down each corner after cutting off the top flaps.  I layed the one short edge down so I could make my box about 31" long. I used the flaps i cut off to add cardboard where needed to form an open box with the corners cut that was 31" long. My box was about 10" high. tape up pieces as needed with duct tape to hold together. I already had the tape, glue and foil, so didnt add these into the costs.

Now cut 4 triangles out of cardboard, the height of your box. You will spread the long sides out an an angle to give  your box the extra width needed to allow a 21" 72 cell pack seed tray between. My box was about 6" too narrow, so my triangles measured 3" each on the wide edge, 10" high, and down to about 3/8" at the point.
Using duct tape, tape these triangle into each corner so the 3" ( or your desired width) edge is along the top (open side ) of box, and the point goes into the bottom of the corner made by spreading long sides out to make opening of box wider.


The above shot shows some white glue drizzled over the bottom to glue the foil down.
I started covering the bottom of the box with foil over the glue. Cut pieces so they extend up each side about 1". It took me two pieces side by side. Spread some glue where they overlap to hold in place and smooth everything down. Oh by the way, cutting aluminum foil with your scissors is supposed to SHARPEN them.
Here, I have 3 of the sides down, and now working on the short edge. I made the foil long enough to wrap over the top edge about 2" to the outer side of box. After folding it over stretch a piece of clear packing tape along the edge. You could also use duct tape if you like, but I thought clear tape looked a little neater.
When the entire inside of your box is covered, then I also taped along the edge with clear packing tape, extending it over the top edge to the inside to protect the edges from tearing. Do this on all 4 sides.

Now using a tape measure ( or eyeball it) measure about 9" in from short edge, and about 4" in from long edge, this is where you will center up your  plug in adapters.
I thought I could make do with 4 lights 60 watts each. You might like 6. i placed the adapeter on the backside of box and drew around it with a marker. then using a knife, i punched thru the center of the circle, and sliced to the edge of the circle, doing this around the area for the hole, making slits about 1/4" apart. Now shove the adaper thru from the inside, prongs first. wrap clear tape around the backside to hold in place. Be extra careful there is ABSOLUTELY NO foil anywhere near any metal parts of the adapter, such as prongs, or inside where bulb screws into.

After you install all adapters, plus in your extension cords into these on the back side. Hold onto adapter on the inside while plugging in cord to back.Now leave one end loose to plug into wall, plug the other ends into the back of your extension cord. So you have a cord plugged into adapter, then a cord plug from another adapter plugged into the back of this cord. So all are connected. Now you should be able to plug the loose cord end into the wall, and ALL 4 lights work.
This is not the cord i used. mine was a cheap 6 foot one for $1.37 You will plug the adapter into one side of the end on left, and the end from another cord into the other side of same end.

Now hear this tomatoes and peppers, "Start Growing!" . I've got room for ya!


3/20/13 Update on tomatoes started under the new grow light:

These were started 3/9/13. So just 11 days later, I have pretty good growth. The area under the light is nice and warm, and I noticed (on the upper left of photo) there is even some condensation inside. I continue to bottom water all my plants on my seed started. And out of almost 100 tomatoes, 30 cabbage, 20 broccoli, about 40 onions,and about 20 head lettuce, I havent lost one seedling. I think thats pretty good results. I just started about 5 watermelon plants today, and about a week ago i started about 30 peppers.